Sunday, June 8, 2008

May 26, 2008






We met for breakfast at 8 am in the dining hall. We ate quickly and had some time to kill before our ride arrived so we decided to head back to our rooms. On the way back up to our rooms after breakfast, Jason and Nick met a Polish student going for his master’s degree in Civil Engineering. They also learned that his roommate is Kurdish.

Paolo and AnnaLisa met us in the Denza lobby and we took 2 taxis to downtown Naples. Taxis + Naples = Adventure. On the way, we learned a few things: people from Naples speak a combination of Italian and Neapolitan; the last eruption of Mt. Vesuvius was in 1944 – as such, many people have forgotten the true threat of the volcano…so much so that 3 villages have sprung up on the craters from the 79 AD eruption and Paolo called their inhabitance there “crazy;” the Borbone had occupied Naples for over three centuries; the legend is that Naples will be destroyed if the alleged egg housed in Castel dell’Ovo is ever destroyed.

Also, in the city’s attempt to decrease the inane traffic, it has begun to build a new underground Metro system. However, digging revealed an ancient Greek port so the project was put on hold. After much discussion, the current plan is to put a museum in the metro station. Naples was originally called Neapolis by the Greeks, which means New City. To further protect the shores of their kingdom, they claimed Naples and used it as a port. Naples was appealing to the Greeks because it had a naturally protected coast and high vantage points to spot incoming ships. Naples proved to be so valuable a port that, within 5 meters below the street surface, evidence of 5 different civilizations can be found: Greeks, Romans, Borbone (Spanish), French and the Dutch (we think!).

Our first stop was the botanical garden, which was first built by the Borbone in an attempt to preserve all the plants in the world – even Eucalyptus trees! We then headed to a cathedral which shares space with the chapel of San Gennaro, the saint who protects Naples from Vesuvius. Underneath the church were ancient Greek and Roman ruins, which included a sophisticated water distribution system, fifth century mosaic floors, and Roman markets. Next, we visited the San Gennaro Museum, of which Paolo is the director. The museum houses treasures that, until it opened in 2001, were unseen by the public for four centuries. Some of the most amazing silver and bronze sculptures reside in this museum along with ornate gifts from every monarch that ever visited the city during San Gennaro’s tenure.

Every year, in May and September, hundreds of thousands of people visit Naples to witness the Miracle of San Gennaro. On one day in each of those months, his blood, which is in a solid state for the rest of the year, liquefies and is presented to the public for their viewing and prayer. We all hope our blood lasts that long.

For lunch, we went to Pizzeria e Friggitoria di Presidente and had our first official Neapolitan pizza. We talked with Paolo and AnnaLisa about politics and our beliefs were confirmed: all Italians want Obama to win.

After some touring in the city, we headed to AnnaLisa’s bookbinding shop, where they specialize in binding custom books…by hand. Amazing. We were lucky enough to see some bookbinding action. They use fish glue, flower glue, needle and thread. Sometimes, a hacksaw is necessary.

We left AnnaLisa and Paolo accompanied us on a taxi ride to meet up with members of the Naples South West Club: Bruno, Ellio and Manuela (not a Rotarian, but the daughter of the club’s president). Manuela came along for her excellent translation skills (she speaks English, French, Italian and Spanish fluently), unique insight on Naples and comic relief. We headed to a yacht club to get a nice view of the sea and get to know each other. Although the cafĂ© was closed at the club, Ellio and Bruno worked their magic to get us some cold drinks. We were soon refreshed and decided to walk to Castel dell’Ovo. At the top of the castle, there is a beautiful panoramic view of the city and the sea. We took in the view for a while and headed down to the American Bar for some more refreshments while Ellio and Bruno headed back to the yacht club to get the cars.
Today was extremely hot and we were all pretty spent after the castle so we headed back to Istituto Denza, our home away from home. While Jane and Martina rested, Nick and Jason washed their unmentionables in the sink. Jason made some makeshift clotheslines for the window and, well, you know the rest.

Next, Franco picked us up to go to a dinner with the Naples South West Rotary Club. Our afternoon crew – Bruno, Ellio and Manuela – joined us and around 30 other people at one of the longest dinner tables we’ve this author’s ever been at. There was a presentation about a video made about the Commorra (the Naples mafia equivalent) and the House of Abraham, a proposed place of worship for Christians, Muslims and Jews.

After dinner, Franco brought us back to Denza and graciously took Nick’s and Jason’s clothes back home to wash for them. They are eternally grateful for that. Sleep soon followed.

Thank you and good night.

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