June 1

So here we are on our very last full day in Italy, and still there is another adventure to enjoy! This time Franco, our GSE coordinator for District 2100 and our planner for the entire trip, volunteered to take us to a nearby inactive volcano because he knew how disappointed we were that we couldn't visit Mount Vesuvius. (Terrible rainy weather prohibited us from flying over it in the 6-seater plane or hiking the volcano as scheduled.) So off Jason, Nick, and Jane went while Martina opted to sleep late (a luxury we had precious little of in the last 30 days.)

Franco picked us up at 8:30 a.m. and off we went, first to the tip of the land mass area called Posillipo on which our residence (Instituto Denza) was located; then we drove north along the sea coast to an ancient and historic area by the sea where Romans and Greeks had settled. Being with Franco was a real treat because he not only is an engineer and architect but also a true Renaissance Man with extensive knowledge of the history of ancient Italy and the Greek and Roman settlements. He gave us a running commentary, including pointing out as we drove the island in the bay where Ulysses was buried, and also the ruins of a huge Roman coliseum, the second largest Roman structure, topped in size only by the coliseum in Rome. The island where Ulysses was buried rose from the sea in 3 days in 1552.

As we arrived at Solfatara, there was a mystical feeling about the place. And for an inactive volcano, there were plenty of jets of steam and sulfur escaping from holes in the ground. It was easy to understand why the Greeks and Romans felt this place was the entrance to the nether world. It was a ceremonial site where they killed sheep and poured sheep's blood into the erupting holes and asked the ghosts of ancestors to give them guidance. We were able to walk (carefully) among the erupting jets without too much difficulty, but it was fascinating to see the heat (312f) erupting from the ground and feel the heat of the soil through the soles of our shoes. The ancients also used this site for health reasons, since the inhalation of sulfur gas has been know since ancient times to have healing power for respiratory ailments.

On a coffee break at Solfatara, Franco explained how Naples even today still has many noblemen, including princes, barons, and marquis. They are not noble by blood but by appointment by a ruling monarchy at some time in the past. Some of them are part of the committee (and have been for four centuries) that is in charge of the St. Gennaro treasures and museum. (See our earlier trip to the Museo of San Gennaro.)

Sunday afternoon Barbara and Franco graciously invited us to their home to meet their family and extended family (all living in the same building) and friends at a farewell party. It was a lovely affair on the terrace with lots of wonderful Italian food - pies with escarole and peppers, procuitto and melon, special bufala mozzarella, pasta and a delicious desserts, all of course with wine (and water too, for the day was very warm). Barbara is an Englishwoman and has participated in many Rotary exchanges (this is Franco's 9^th GSE year) and was very welcoming. Their two daughters, Elsie and Fanny were there also and later in the afternoon, Fanny, who is very talented on the piano, treated us to a few songs. She's also quite a sportswoman, and she and Nick played with the hackeysack Martina had given her. Barbara and Franco even recommended some summer reading titles for Jane about Naples.

Then off to the Denza to pack and rest before our last dinner in Italy! We walked to a nearby restaurant - not the one where they didn't want to serve us only wine the night before - but this one provided it's own challenges. Everything Jane wanted to order was not in season - it was a seasonal restaurant. But we managed to be fed and then enjoyed a wonderful gelato at the café down the street. To bed early because we must meet Franco at 3:45 a.m.!